The Andre Walker hair chart is a widely recognized system for classifying hair texture based on curl pattern, density, and porosity. Developed by Andre Walker, the hairstylist behind the ‘Andre Walker Hair Typing System,’ it helps people choose styles and products that suit their natural texture. This guide explains each type, shares practical care tips, and shows how to use the chart to build a simple, effective routine.
What Is the Andre Walker Hair Chart
The Andre Walker chart organizes hair into four main types labeled 1A to 4C, based on curl pattern and strand width. Each type has subcategories that describe shape, density, and common behaviors such as shrinkage or oil movement. The system is a starting point for understanding how your hair behaves, not a rigid rule. It is most useful when combined with porosity, density, and health assessments for personalized care.
Hair Type 1: Straight
Subtypes 1A, 1B, and 1C
Type 1 hair falls into three subtypes defined by body width and ability to hold a curl. These strands are usually fine and soft, with a straight silhouette from root to tip.
| Attribute | Verified Detail | Source Type |
|---|---|---|
| Type 1A | Fine, thin, very soft, hard to curl | Common usage observations |
| Type 1B | Medium density, more volume, slight bend | Common usage observations |
| Type 1C | Coarse, dense, holds style well | Common usage observations |
- Common traits: shiny, resilient, minimal natural curl
- Styling tips: use lightweight products; avoid heavy butters that can weigh hair down
- Challenges: buildup from products; can appear limp without layers or texture
Hair Type 2: Wavy
Subtypes 2A, 2B, and 2C
Wavy hair (types 2A–2C) forms an S pattern and often shows movement from root to ends. It can be fine to medium in density, and responds well to light mousse or cream.
| Attribute | Verified Detail | Source Type |
|---|---|---|
| Type 2A | Loose, barely visible waves, fine to medium | Common usage observations |
| Type 2B | Tighter waves, more volume, frizz possible at roots | Common usage observations |
| Type 2C | Thick, defined waves, coarse texture, prone to frizz | Common usage observations |
- Common traits: piecey texture, natural movement, mid-shine
- Styling tips: scrunch with a light gel or mousse; diffuse to enhance wave pattern
- Challenges: root flatness, frizz; clarify regularly to preserve shape
Hair Type 3: Curly
Subtypes 3A, 3B, and 3C
Type 3 hair features defined ringlets or corkscrew curls with noticeable elasticity. It tends to be more fragile and benefits from gentle handling and consistent moisture.
| Attribute | Verified Detail | Source Type |
|---|---|---|
| Type 3A | Large, loose curls, fine to medium strand | Common usage observations |
| Type 3B | Tight corkscrews, medium density, more volume | Common usage observations |
| Type 3C | Very tight curls, dense, coil-like pattern | Common usage observations |
- Common traits: visible curl formation, prone to dryness, can shrink significantly
- Styling tips: use leave-in conditioner, curl-defining cream, and gentle drying
- Challenges: tangles, single-strand twists, maintaining moisture balance
Hair Type 4: Coily
Subtypes 4A, 4B, and 4C
Type 4 hair has a tight zigzag or coil pattern with high density. The strands are often fragile, very dry, and can shrink when dry. This type needs consistent moisture and protective styling.
| Attribute | Verified Detail | Source Type |
|---|---|---|
| Type 4A | Tight, defined coils, soft feel, visible curl pattern | Common usage observations |
| Type 4B | Z-shaped pattern, less defined curls, dense | Common usage observations |
| Type 4C | Very densely coiled, fragile, high shrinkage, minimal definition | Common usage observations |
- Common traits: high shrinkage, fragile strands, requires frequent moisture
- Styling tips: protective styles, heavy creams and butters, sealing with oil
- Challenges: breakage, edge control, balancing moisture without buildup
How to Use the Chart in Practice
Start by identifying your primary curl pattern using the Andre Walker chart, then layer in porosity, density, and hair goals. For example, someone with 3B hair and high porosity may need heavier creams and regular protein treatments to maintain definition and minimize breakage. Pair the chart with a porosity test and a strand test to tailor your regimen rather than relying on generalized routines.
Building a Regimen Around Type
- Cleansing: choose a sulfate-free shampoo or co-wash based on density and porosity
- Conditioning: use a rich conditioner and deep condition weekly for 30–60 minutes
- Styling: apply leave-in, then a defining cream or gel, and seal if prone to dryness
- Protection: use satin or silk; pine or braid at night for fragile types
Common Misconceptions
Many assume the chart defines everything about hair health or product needs, but it only addresses pattern. Porosity, density, and overall condition often matter more for how your hair behaves. Type 4C is not always ‘damaged,’ nor is Type 1 straight hair automatically low maintenance. Heat tools, chemicals, and mechanical stress affect all types, so protect based on behavior, not label alone.
Conclusion
The Andre Walker chart is a practical tool for understanding curl patterns and setting realistic expectations for styling and care. By combining type knowledge with insights about porosity and density, you can design a routine that supports healthy, defined curls. Use it as a flexible guide rather than a strict rule, and adjust based on how your hair responds over time.