Key answers in brief
Mount Saint Elias, on the Alaska–Yukon border, is the second tallest mountain in the United States and the fourth highest in North America. Standing at 18,008 feet (5,489 m), it is lower than Denali but higher than other well-known peaks such as Mount Foraker and Mount Whitney. The mountain lies within Wrangell–Saint Elias National Park and Preserve, is part of the Saint Elias Mountains, and is accessed primarily from Yakutat or McCarthy. Though not as prominently climbed as Denali, it remains a notable, high-latitude objective with significant glaciation and complex tectonic history.
Defining the second tallest mountain in the United States
Among summits wholly or partially within the United States, elevation above sea level is the standard metric for ranking tallest mountains. When excluding minor benchmark variations and focusing on commonly accepted figures, only one summit exceeds Denali (20,310 ft / 6,190 m) within the country, making it the clear first, while another stands clearly as first runner-up. The second-tallest peak must be substantially higher than all others, possess distinct prominence from surrounding ridges, and have a documented record of measurement and recognition. Mount Saint Elias meets these criteria, and its elevation, location, and exploration history are well documented in surveys and climbing literature.
Elevation and key metrics
Mount Saint Elias has a summit elevation of 18,008 feet (5,489 m), placing it firmly as the second highest in the United States. Prominence, or the peak’s vertical rise above the lowest contour enclosing it and no higher summit, is approximately 11,752 feet (3,582 m), underscoring its substantial independence from higher terrain. Topographic isolation, or the distance to the nearest point of equal elevation, exceeds 75 miles (about 120 km), reflecting its position within a broad, high-altitude massif. These attributes are consistent across authoritative datasets from federal surveys and long-accepted mountaineering references.
| Attribute | Verified Detail | Source Type |
|---|---|---|
| Summit elevation | 18,008 feet (5,489 m) | NSIDC / USGS |
| Prominence | 11,752 feet (3,582 m) | Peakbagger / Alpine Club |
| Topographic isolation | ~77 miles (~124 km) | Peakvisor / USGS |
| Rank in the United States | 2nd highest | Mountaineering consensus records |
| Range | Saint Elias Mountains | USGS Gazetteer |
Location and geography
Mount Saint Elias sits on the international boundary between the U.S. state of Alaska and Yukon, Canada. It lies within the Wrangell–Saint Elias National Park and Preserve, the largest national park in the United States by area. The mountain anchors a landscape of immense icefields, tidewater glaciers, and high ridges, including Mount Bona and Mount Drum. From the Pacific coast near Yakutat northward toward the Alaska interior, the Saint Elias Mountains form a dramatic backdrop shaped by ongoing plate interactions. The peak is often climbed as part of multiday expeditions starting from McCarthy, Kenny Lake, or nearby glacier approaches.
Range context and surrounding high points
The Saint Elias Mountains are part of the broader Pacific Ring of Fire and host some of the highest peaks in both the U.S. and Canada. Within this range, Mount Saint Elias is second only to Mount Logan in Canada, but within U.S. borders it stands alone as the second highest. Nearby notable summits include Mount Bona and Mount Drum, both in the Saint Elias range, and Foraker and Hunter in the Alaska Range. Recognizing range boundaries helps distinguish true topographic peers and clarifies comparisons across the region.
Climbing history and routes
The first ascent of Mount Saint Elias was achieved in 1897 by an international team led by the Duke of the Abruzzi, with guides including noted alpinist Vittorio Sella. The expedition approached via the Saint Elias Glacier and established a route that, while historic, remains conceptually straightforward by modern standards. Contemporary climbing objectives typically follow similar glacier-based approaches, with standard routes targeting the southern or eastern aspects. Teams today face challenges including crevassed glaciers, variable weather, and complex navigation on heavily serac terrain. Acclimatization, glacier travel skills, and experience with remote Alaskan objectives are essential.
Standard climbing approaches
- Approach: flight or boat to McCarthy or Yakutat, followed by overland travel to glacier terminals.
- Base camps: commonly established on the Saint Elias Glacier or nearby tributary icefields.
- Typical route: traverse of intervening ridges or direct ascent of southern/southeastern slopes, depending on conditions.
- Key considerations: serac fall zones, bridge river crossings, crevasse management, and rapidly changing coastal weather.
Recognition and measurement milestones
Formal recognition of Mount Saint Elias as the second highest U.S. summit has evolved with advances in surveying and shifting definitions of what counts as U.S. territory. Early territorial surveys and topographic mapping in the late 19th and early 20th centuries refined elevations and positions. The advent of GPS and modern photogrammetry has further corroborated figures reported by earlier cartographers and explorers. Consistent documentation across federal agencies and mountain databases confirms current rankings, though historical debates about measurement criteria occasionally surface in mountaineering circles.
| Date or Period | Event | Why It Matters |
|---|---|---|
| 1897 | First ascent by Duke of the Abruzzi team | Early exploration milestone in Alaska |
| Mid‑20th century | USGS mapping and elevation resurveys | Standardized elevation data used today |
| 1980 | Wrangell–Saint Elias National Park established | Enhanced protection for the peak and its surroundings |
| 1990s–present | GPS and modern survey verification | Confirms rank and measurements |
How it compares to other major U.S. summits
Understanding where Mount Saint Elias ranks requires a clear list of the highest U.S. summits by elevation. Denali dominates as the tallest, followed by Mount Saint Elias in second. Other peaks, such as Mount Foraker, Mount Whitney, and Mount Blackburn, are high but fall short of these two. Climbers often compare technical difficulty, accessibility, and exposure when choosing objectives, with Denali and Mount Saint Elias representing two distinct tiers of commitment. Contextualizing rank helps manage expectations and guide goal-setting for expeditions.
| Rank | Peak | Elevation | Range |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Denali | 20,310 ft (6,190 m) | Alaska Range |
| 2 | Mount Saint Elias | 18,008 ft (5,489 m) | Saint Elias Mountains |
| 3 | Mount Foraker | 17,400 ft (5,304 m) | Alaska Range |
| 4 | Mount Whitney | 14,505 ft (4,421 m) | Sierra Nevada |
Conservation and access considerations
Mount Saint Elias lies within Wrangell–Saint Elias National Park and Preserve, where federal protections aim to preserve wilderness values and ecological integrity. Visitors are encouraged to follow Leave No Trace principles, coordinate flight and landing plans, and respect subsistence uses by local communities. Because the mountain is remote and weather can close air access without warning, responsible trip planning is essential. Permits may be required for certain landing zones or research activities, and consultation with park staff can help align climbs with conservation priorities.
Bottom line
Mount Saint Elias is the definitive second tallest mountain in the United States, combining significant elevation, substantial prominence, and striking geography in a remote, glaciated landscape. Its position on the Alaska–Yukon border, ties to the Saint Elias Mountains, and place behind only Denali in U.S. rankings make it a well-documented and enduring high-point objective. Understanding its elevation, context within the national high-point list, and logistics for access helps clarify its status and supports informed planning for those interested in large, icy Alaskan summits.